Many brass items are coated with a protective material to stop them from tarnishing. This coating often fails sometimes over many years and the tarnish gets under the coating. In order to polish the item you need to remove the coating. I have one lamp where I still have not figured out how to get the coating off, so it is still unpolished. Sometimes the coating deteriorates and is gone by the time you are ready to polish and sometimes you can use a solvent or paint remover to get it off.
But this instructable is not about removing the coating, use it if:. Also note that some brass object have deliberately non polished or colored areas, this technique is probably too brutal to be used on these objects. When you have finished polishing you can either add a coating or not. If you do not add a coating plan to polish again on a boat perhaps next week, in a house perhaps next year , this is what I often do.
Even if you do coat the surface it will not be permanent. Again this is not an instructable about coating, but about polishing. I will give a few tips later in the instructable on coating. This is the step is dirty, hardest part, in this you get the gross stuff of and get down to the metal. For an example I will uses an andiron that has seen many a fire over about 5 years since the last cleaning. It does not have any sort of protective coating. I will also not go for the ultimate polish, this guy is going back in the fireplace.
Brush or wipe off the item so it is reasonable to work on and then set it up at a convenient work height on a disposable surface perhaps newspaper. On un-coated brass this gets down to the metal almost immediately. When I take the first cut at the job I then decide whether or not to take the item apart. In the case of the andiron it is a fairly simple job and lets me get into spots that otherwise would be hard to reach. In a similar way it is often good to take hardware off any mounting.
Aside from the steel wool you can also use a tooth brush, string coated with polish use like dental floss or a cloth. I would not use a wire brush, sandpaper, or coarser steel wool. You may find that even the steel wool is not necessary, be a gentle as possible while still staying effective.
I polished the parts until they look pretty good then wash them off. I do not like to leave this polish or most polishes on the piece at the end of the polishing. Use you judgment about washing, I did not wash my marine barometer, I just used damp paper towels to clean it up.
After washing I look for missed spots, touch them up and wash again. The first level polishing has a raw metal look without much sheen, this and the next step should correct that. We are done with the harsh stuff and the steel wool. I use Noxon Seven Metal Polish here. Apply with soft cloth and buff off. Continue while you have good results. Do not try to get off stuff missed in the first level, if you have this be more careful earlier.
Go back to the first level if it is critical for you to get off this sort of blemish. Be gentle on plastic. Too much pressure and friction can create excess heat, which can warp or streak plastic. If you want to learn more about polishing metal, get in touch with a member of our sales staff at a KMS Tools location near you. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.
Metal Polishing Terms Metal polishing comes with its own glossary. Here are a few important terms to know when getting started: buffing— another term for polishing. Prep Work With raw extruded or cast metals such as aluminum and stainless steel, sanding can be a key first step towards achieving a mirror-like finish.
When wet sanding, start with a coarser grit and work your way up to 1,, grit in grit increments. Wet Sanding For hand sanding flat surfaces, wet sandpaper can be effective. Sanding with a Die Grinder Another option for surface prep—one with a little more zing than wet sanding—is a die grinder. Polishing and Buffing Wheels Choosing the correct buff is an important step in achieving your desired outcome.
Ideal for heavy cutting, sisal wheels are made with the coarse fibres of the sisal plant, a species of agave native to Mexico. Applying Polishing Compound With the buffing wheel turning toward you, gently press the compound against the bottom of the wheel. Polishing Techniques: How to Buff with the Best After your wheel is evenly coated with compound, you are ready to start buffing.
Here are a few tips to help you achieve stunning results: Hold your workpiece firmly and move it across the edge of the wheel in a downward angle. Keep the workpiece in constant motion and contact the buffing wheel below its centre.
Instead, let the wheel and compound do the work. Polishing Machines There are many affordable buffing machines on the market that are ideal for hobbyists and professionals who occasionally need to polish metal. This Magnum benchtop polisher is versatile and effective. You can also use cloth or foam pads. This removes a thin layer of the finish — and with it, the oxidation and light scratches that can occur over time.
You can use a cut buffing or color buffing motion to give metal the right finish. Color buffing goes with the rotation, improving the brightness and shine factor. Learn more about buffing techniques in our Eastwood Garage buffing guide.
Our buffing tools are made for turning your car into something so bright, people are blinded by the shine. You can order basics such as buffing motors , buffing wheels, cones and buffing compounds for cleaning up dull fenders or chrome trim. Other products such as expander grinding wheels and abrasive cylinders will do rougher jobs.
A buffing and polishing kit will have all the important tools and accessories for a striking result. Once you've got that body ultra-smooth, it's time for a good polish.
Eastwood paint and metal polishing kits will maintain that gorgeous result for longer than buffing alone. We've made or found all the best show wax, tire dressing, trim coating, headlight restoration compounds and car wash for detailing your latest masterpiece. Our paint polisher tools and replacement pads make the process go much faster than regular hand application. After all the work you've put into restoring a vintage car, you deserve the chance to show it off.
Buffing machines, polishing equipment, tools and accessories from Eastwood will bring out the brilliance of any ride so you make a great first impression at shows.
Use them to regularly detail your street car as well so you can retain that new-vehicle look after years on the road. Eastwood has everything you need for buffing and polishing. Whether you want to buff a piece of aluminum to a mirror-like finish or color-sand and buff paint, Eastwood has the products to do the job right.
We also provide lifetime tech support by phone, via email, at our in-store locations or online in the Eastwood Garage. Contact us today and tell us about your project. Are you prepping for a show, or are you getting ready to undergo a major buffing job? We'll point you toward the best product for your needs and get you going in the right direction for learning the techniques that lead to excellent finishes.
All of our projects come with our percent customer satisfaction guarantee. With Eastwood and a little bit of elbow grease, you'll have that project out of your garage in no time so you can turn heads and drop jaws at the next show. Automotive Finishes Colors.
Pressure Blasters Soda Blasters. Media Accessories. Auto Parts. Let it dry. For functional elements, such as locks, hinges, hardware, or light fixtures, Sorenson suggests seeking the help of a professional. Sometimes the beauty of an antique brass object is its tarnish, in which case Sorenson recommends leaving it alone. By Melissa Minton. Decoration Renovation Conversation Shopping.
Architectural Digest Clever. Determine if the Object is Brass or Brass-Plated The way to know whether or not something is fully brass is simple: Place a magnet on it. Polish the Brass Regularly To remove discoloration, use a polish designed specifically for brass.
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