Toggle navigation. The emulator is still under development, but should be completed by the end of this year. Strategy Games War Games. Share on:. Embed code. Overview Gameplays. Controls: mouse. There are no gameplays yet. Add the first one! How to add gameplay! Comments Show comments. Minimum number of characters: 3. ImAnnoyed unregistered [ Dec 14th, ]. Reply to user. Screw-this unregistered [ Nov 9th, ]. Cut as many fruits as possible and avoid touching the bombs.
There will be all kinds of fruits coming your way, like oranges, melons, pineapples, coconuts and many many more. Just try to not hit any of the bombs, otherwise you'll be out and have to try all over again.
Slip into the role of a sneaky and deadly ninja making your way to the level's exit. In our fun new sword games, you will be exploring the art of making swords and throwing them into your enemies. This creator will allow you to put different pieces of various weapons together to create a kind of template for a weapon. It's mostly meant for inspiration as there are no colors, but if you're a little creative and confident enough with an editing program you can create some fun results.
I kept the weapons white on purpose. Not only does this make it easier for people who want to edit them, but I feel like this also helps with opening up to more creative possibilities. I could've colored all the blades in a metal color for example, but there are way more possibilities and some people might not see them when the focus is on that metal color.
At this point the object is to make flat smooth surfaces with sharp cornered jewel like facets. This helps keep the lines straight and accurate. Rounding comes last. IF you did a very good job with the scraper you can jump to the grit Wet-or-Dry paper.
Use it wet and on a sanding block or stick. Continue to keep all the facets flat and with crisp sharp corners. A sanding block can help prevent rolling of corners. Work the entire blade until it has a smooth grey finish and no evidence of filing or scraping. IF you did NOT do a very good job with the scraper or did not scrape then start with the grit cloth.
When the entire blade has an even finish then change to the cloth. Once finished with the paper or cloth it is time to radius the blade edges. Leaving a flat facet on the edge of the blade it will look sharp. Do not try to make it sharper. Rounding the edges is recommended if the blade is to be used in sword play. Otherwise it will nick and ding easily. Then using grit and a sanding block remove the file marks and break the resulting corners. The idea is to make a smooth accurate radius.
Once the corners are broken you can hand sand the radius to a smooth round edge. Using grit paper wet finish the flats and edges by hand.
Smoother paper can be used before polishing but I have found little or no advantage. Polishing can be done on a sewn cotton buffing wheel using Tripoli OR by hand using 3M Orange buffing compound. Dip the folded corner of a rag into the buffing compound and apply to the blade rubbing lengthwise. As the compound dries refresh it. Do not apply to more than the area you can work at one time about 1 foot of blade at a time.
Continue to use the compound wet until it seems to do no more good. Then polish with the small amounts of the worn dried compound in the rag.
Change to a smooth clean rag and polish off the remaining compound dry. A minuscule amount of worn compound off the surface of the blade will be enough to finish the surface to jewel like brilliance.
Saw out, shape and fit the guard from the material of your choice. To make the hole for the blade layout a rectangular hole the size of the tang on the back of the guard.
Then file the hole square using the square file. Radius the front of the hole to fit the blade shoulder radius.
Fit this area carefully. It should fit tight and not have any visible gaps. It is one of the most critical quality areas of a custom made blade. A perfect fit in this area is one mark of a professional. Finish and polish the guard the same as the blade. The pommel is usually made of the same material as the guard. IF the grip will be a hard material and the pommel fitted last the round shank should have a little extra length. IF the grip will be added after the pommel then the tang needs a shoulder to position the pommel.
There should be about one diameter of extra tang end. Countersink the hole in the end of the pommel lightly. The end of the tang is upset bradded into this chamfer on final assembly. The end is then finished round or flush with a file and finished to match.
The Grip if solid hard wood walnut, ebony, exotic is made the same as the Option 1 Wooden Sword grip and fitted to the pommel the same way. However, care must be taken when finishing wood and metal together. The wood cuts much easier than the metal and shaped tools fitting the cross section work best at the joint. A wood grip is best bedded in with clear epoxy as the tang is riveted making a tight permanent assembly. The point is to make a practice sword from ferrous metal by forging, finishing and fitting all the parts exactly as you would a real sword without working high carbon steel and needing to heat treat it harden and temper.
The furniture on this sword should be brass or stainless. You have the option of fabricating, forging or casting the furniture. Casting brass is a whole new world of tools and techniques but is also one of those skills practiced by most armourers. I recommend learning casting as a separate craft at another time.
So we will describe a fabricated guard and pommel. Details to follow. Option 4: Carbon Steel Knife. If you cannot make a small high quality cooking knife then why do you want to try to make a sword?
A blade 4 times bigger than a kitchen knife or a Bowie is 20 times harder to make. If you find heat treating a 12" blade is difficult then a sword may be impossible with your skills and equipment.
A small blade is a step in learning all the processes for making a large blade. If you skipped options 1 through 4 then you have missed all the prerequisites. We'll assume you are an experienced craftsperson with all the skills described above. There is more than one way to make a sword. Forging, stock removal or Damascus laminated steel which combines both techniques. Then there are options to the Damascus. You can forge your own billet, you can purchase a Damascus blank or you can buy a finished blade and fit furniture to it.
Many makers use blanks made by others and some of the pre-finished blades are less expensive than blanks. In each case you must have a design in mind. You may want to have made a prototype in wood.
If you have completed option projects 1 through 3 then you should know how to design and layout your blade.
If you have completed option projects 3 and 4 you should know how to fit the furniture to a steel blade and have some idea how you want to proceed from this point.
So all that is left is to learn to do is make a long blade rather than a short one. The decision as to how to make the blade is yours and yours alone. The biggest difference between making a knife and a sword is the equipment necessary to handle the length of the blade.
You CAN finish any blade with files, hand scrapers and natural stone. If you prefer to use machines the grinding equipment to do simple finishing is nearly the same for a forged blade as for a stock removal blade. Powered grinders have been used for centuries. To use machinery rather than ancient hand methods you will need a good belt grinder. Where 2" 50mm wide belts are suitable for most blades it is recommended that you use a 6" mm wide belt for sword making. The machine cost difference is considerable.
Forging a sword does not require a long heat. If you heat the entire length of a sword to a red heat it becomes limp and hard to handle. Forging is done in short sections and can be done in most forges. A long trough forge is most convenient because there is room for the extra length. For heat treating you need to heat the entire blade evenly at one time.
This can be done two ways, horizontally and vertically. Both methods require a long forge or furnace. If heated horizontally the blade must be carefully handled to prevent bending under its own load. The blade must be supported carefully between furnace and quench tank.
If heated vertically the blade can be lifted with a hook or by the tang and there are no bending loads on the blade. However, to get an even heat the furnace used must have good circulation.
Salt pots are often used for these long vertical heats because of the more uniform heating and lack of oxidation. Neither virgins or slaves have been used to test swords that is a children's story. You cannot chop a machine gun barrel in two with a Japanese sword modern myth. Ancient steels were not superior to modern alloy steels another modern myth. Atlantis was not in the Atlantic. The story of Atlantis was based on rumors of the demise of the Minoan island culture in the Mediterranean by a volcanic eruption.
The story was handed down by Egyptians to Plato who turned the little truth into a myth. Adamantium is a fictional comic book element without any basis in reality like Kryptonite. It is just another "Unobtainium". Mithirl J. Tolkien another MYTHical metal. You cannot cold forge a sword from a leaf spring modern web myth - parody. Steel sword blanks are not cast, that is a Bronze Age method using copper alloys not steel. Nobody forges on an an anvil with a flammable liquid on it but some blade makers use water.
You cannot compare "sunrise red" to a sunrise and snow is not dense enough to be used as a quenchant. It is great fun but it is NOT real. Highlander: You cannot chop into a concrete column with a sharp sword without seriously damaging it.
You cannot chop steel railings or beams in two with a sword ANY sword. Swords do not make showers of sparks when slid against other items or other swords. Titanium: Titanium is NOT a blade metal. It is not intrinsically sharp or hard as a recent TV commercial for razor blades indicates. That is more Hollywood hype and bad science written by advertising executives that know nothing of metallurgy. Titanium nitride. TiN, used to coat cutting tools, is stable well past the melting point of steel.
But its properties are only suitable to use as a very thin coating over a harder material. It increases wear resistance. The use of Titanium in steel is usually limited to VERY small amounts used to scavenge nitrogen from the melt when using boron as a hardenabiltiy agent. Titanium itself does not make an appreciable difference in alloying the steel.
0コメント